Day 50 Feb 27th

 Ok so we're halfway through our trip now. We are at the  50 day Mark of our travels.

Our passage today is from Rum to Kyle in Loch Alsh. 

We'll weigh anchor at 0900 hours and leave lock Scresort leaving the North cardinal buoy to starboard, sail East towards the point of Sleat, there is a white lighthouse on the Headland. Keep that to Port follow the port hand coastline round to the northeast heading up to the Kyle Rhea. There is a lighthouse with a sectored light in the Rhea to show the safe transit lines from both South and North.

 Through here the tidal stream can be very strong, up to 8 knots on Springs, so timing is essential we will be arriving hopefully at low tide after which the streams will run North coming out of the Kyle Rhea into Loch Alsh. Turn to the west and slightly towards the northside. Just before The Harbour there are a couple of small islands to the right. There is a bouyed channel and hopefully a harbourmaster on 01599 953 467 mobile 07768 980924

Trip 5hrs  33 nm

Day 49 Feb 26 Onwards to Rum (the island)

 0800 Start today and a 5 hour trip up to the island of Rum.  The wind is fresh and in the south so should be agood run.

HW Tobermory is 0530 and 1740 

Weather. Wind S F5,bright withsome cloud

Weigh Anchor at 8.00 and set out West. There are some rocky outcrops of 'Sligneach Mor' and 'Sligneach Beag'  which we will keep on our port side. . 

Then keep to the North of "Red Rocks"  follow the Northern coastline past" Macleans Nose" Maol buidhe, Port Choinnich, Port Garbh and by the time we are abreast of the lighthouse at Point of Ardnamurchan we should be going dead North with the Isles of Muck,Eigg and Rum ahead of us.  We will head to the west of Muck as there  are strong overalls around the south of the island and I would rather be swept away  from then than towards.  

Unfortunately this means pushing against the tide for the last leg up to Rum.Finally we reach Loch Scresort and the anchorage. Be wary of the rocky outcrop on the Southern edge of the bay.

Trip 31nm

Rum is good for Walking cycling, fishing or deer stalking. For a complete overview of all things Rum go to Isle of Rum

Day 48 Feb 25th A day exploring Loch Sunart

A leisurely day just enjoying the scenery. We'll take the day pretty much as it comes depending on conditions.

A fresh westerly wind means We'll be running down the loch. but remembering we want to be near the head of the Lock overnight for tomorrows journey to Rum.  For the moment we will go to Salen. This is about halfway along the loch, but usefully is sheltered from the westerly wind,  After Lunch we will head back to the anchorages to the North or South of Orensay.  

 

Weather Wind w F5/6 easing later. Rain most of the day.

Tide HW Tobermory is 1730

Passage Plan

From Tobermory cross the south to just south of Little Stirk SCB,then North and West into Lock Sunart. Winding our way down the middle of the Loch the main hazard is the isolated rock to the south of Risga. Once we reach Salen Bay keep to the East of the bay until past the ECM where we can anchor up or go to the pontoon if there's space.

After lunch is the reverse until the anchorage at.Orensay. 

Day 47 Feb 24th On to Tobermory

 Just a short leg today up the sound of Mull.  Around 12 to 13 miles leaving at 10.00 hrs,should take us about. 2 hrs 

Passage Plan

Weather  Wind.  S F4/5, cloudy brightening up later. 

Tide Hw Tobermory 1630

Weigh Anchor 1000 hrs and Head out of the Loch using the bourgage to guide us.. Note It will be low tide at this point so keeping on the channel particularly important.

Once clear of the Loch we turn NW up the sound. No particular hazards as long as we keep to the outside of the various Port and Starboard bouys. We are travelling with the direction of bouyage. Tobermory Harbour Association  01688 302876 or 07917832497 VHF #68

Day 46 Feb 23rd Linnhe , Sound of Shauna

 A gentle sail down Loch Linnhe to the anchorage just off the Sound of Shauna. 

Weather. Wind. SE F3  Wet heavy rain at times.

Tide. HW  15. 00 at Shauna  Island.

Weigh Anchor 0800. Using the bouyage We pick out way out past the Islands and proceed down Loch Linnhe. Care to be taken around the various fish farms along the way. (Note the software sails us straight through these.)

Pretty much a straight sail with no major obstacles.  We'll head in to the Sound of Shauna and  Dallens Bay to find an anchoring spot. 

After lunch We move on to Loch Aline off the Sound of Mull.

A few hazards to watch for on the next stretch.  There are many places that are subject to tidal overalls butI think we have the tide right and we may be spared the worst of these.  Leaving the Dallens anchorage via the north of Shauna we continue down Loch Linnhe before turning west then north west into the sound of Mull. Immediately there are rocks and small islands so we head toward the North of the cardinal bouy using

 The leading light in the form of a WRG sectored flashing light (10s) on Ardtornish point to guide us. 

A mile or so past Ardtornish point is the entrance to Loch Aline.Approach on a track of 357°  and then follow the bouyage through the narrow entrance. 

There are plenty of places to anchor some bouys and a marina here. As it is so sheltered here a night on the hook will be good.

Day 45 Feb 22nd. Corpach and Fort William.

 Today we get back to the sea and have to start dealing with tides and stuff again.  Just a few miles and a few Locks to go and we should be at Neptune's flight of Locks. Now this is a large set of locks and it's going to take a while to traverse down them. We also need to stock up on fuel water and food supplies.  We should be able to get most of this at the head of the locks in Banavie Top Basin.

The weather has settled for the next week so exploring the western isles should be a pleasant experience..

We'll anchor just outside Corpach lock for the night whilst we consider our next destination.

Day 44 Feb 21st Loch Locky

 With an average depth of 70m Loch Locky is the third deepest lock in Scotland.  The sides of the lock are very steep so there are only few places to anchor.  We will  probably sail straight through and on to Gairlochy, stay there overnight, and do the last leg to Corpach on Monday.

Day43 Feb 20th Loch Oich. Day 4 on the canal

 Fort Augustus sits along the sides of the river Oich and the canal. It is also the next flight of 4 locks leading on to Loch Oich. Over the next few miles there are another couple of locks and a swing bridge before opening out into the Loch.  Our first danger after the swing bridge is to avoid the Weir on the Starboard side. There are plenty of bouys to keep us in line!  

North Eastern end of Loch Oich

We are reminded in the skippers guide that Loch Oich is partof a hydroelectric power complex and so is subject to changes in level and therefore depth. There are a few opportunities to stop.  Glengarry Castle Hotel for lunch maybe or a visit to Invergarry castle.

Then it's on through Laggan Locks and into Loch Locky. By then it will probably be time to tie up for the night.

Day 42 Feb 19th Caledonian Day 3.

 Today well head on to Fort Augustus.  A good place to stop. and stretch your legs.  Get supplies and do the tourist thing, wandering around and going in all the knick knack shops, buy a nessie /s for the grandkids .  

Tomorrow, we'll get up the flight of locks and get a few more miles under the keel.

Day 41 Feb 18th Onwards to Loch Ness

 The first part of the journey takes us up the Muirtown flight of 4 locks. It will be quite busy as a few boats will have left the marina together to catch the first opening.

This will take a couple of hours to complete then theres a bit of a plod along to the Swing bridge that takes the A82 across the canal.  There are waiting pontoons here as this is a busy road.  Once through the pack of boats should start to spread as some want to crack on while others will idle their way to make full use of the 7 day license.  We wind our way along the canal until the River Ness joins at Dochgarroch weir beyond which is the first anchoring point at Cambuslochy bay in Loch Dockfour,  for a spot of lunch maybe? 

Loch Dockfour is quite short an soon turns into Loch Ness.

 With a south easterly wand We'll look for a place on the southern shore to stay for the night. Unfortunately the topography of the Ness means We have limited place to Anchor. Foyers, about halfway down the Ness is such a designated spot. Keep Your eyes out for Nessie.

Trip 20nm  Total. 869 nm.

Day 40 Feb,7th Caledonian Canal.

 We'll Scoot round to the lock this morning and purchase all our permits and stuff for the transit through the canals and lochs to western Scotland.

The sea lock operates HW ± 4. So we'll go round about Midday. 

In actual fact the caledonian canal is not open all the way along it's length due to extensive repair works. So for the sake of this blog we'll pretend it's OK.  

The License seems a bit expensive at £21.55 per metre, but you have to take into account that it includes all your berthing and facilities are free for the 7 nights of your license, and the first night in the Seaport marina is also free. So we'll stop there for the first night and set off in the morning. worth noting that electricity, should you need it, is £3 a night.

Day 39 Feb 16th Pancake Day. Findochty to Inverness.

 Time to move on and leave the pretty but somewhat austere Findochty.  Nice meal at the "Admiral" pub though.

Next port is inverness.,in preparation for a trip through the caledonian canal and onto the west coast.

On leaving the harbour we broad reach across the bay due West towards Lossiemouth Keeping north of the Halliman Skerries. Then Sw into the Moray Firth toward Cromarty.

Taking the Southern approaches pastwhite ness sands winding into the inverness ness rounding the North headland with its White Tower.  At this point we need to call harbour controll on ch12.  If no reply proceed with caution.   We are still 7miles to go at this point. 

This is the best place in Britain to spot Dolphins,by the way.
We then follow the north coast  down under the Kessoch Bridge then left into the narrow entrance of the river Ness and immediately left again into Inverness Marina.

Trip 49nm Total. 849nm 

Day 38 Feb 15th Peterhead and beyond.

 The sun is just coming up and it looks to be a nice day. 

There is still quite a swell from the storms but the wind and as well are travelling together for the first part of our journey .  This usually gives rise to a horrible rolling motion on the boat so it may be wise to have the sea-sickness pills now if you're susceptable or at least have them handy.

The coast here is littered with small /tiny harbours some of which dry out most of which are for local fishing boats only,  and a few that take visiting yachts. The first choice was Banff, but a look at their website see them closed for repairs. Next along the coast is 

The original plan was to go to Banff Harbour but that is closed for repairs, then there's Whitehills,  but they are full

It would have been a very difficult entry and exit for Watanga, it's tiny!

Portsoy  too small

Portknockie dries

Findochty Harbour  Now here's somewhere we can get into and is where we're going to aim for.

Passage plan 

Weather  Wind S/SW F5/6 sea state moderate at Peterhead slight at Findochty

Tides. Hw 1400 at Findochty. Slack water around Rattray head 0930

0800 call Harbour control for permission to leave  after clearing breakwaters head 060 to avoid rocks North of the harbour. There will be a strong North going tidal stream. Stay 1m offshore as we head north then west past Fraserburgh.

We'll have a nice broad reach along the coast from here

Once close identify the leading lights and follow them into Harbour on course 166

We should arrive about

1400hrs so plenty of time to explore.

Trip 47 nm Total. 800 nm

Day 37 Feb 14 th Valentines Day.

Peterhead doesn't boast a great many restuarants,however a quick look at Trip Advisor reveals a couple of places.. The Dolphin Cafe looks good if you fancy fish and chips. It you prefer to go upmarket a bit then try "The Front Room " at the Palace Hotel. It's about 30 mins walk from the marina. 

To be honest just about everything is 30 Mins walk from the marina. 

It looks like we may be able to move on tomorrow if the swell dies down by the time we leave, we'll assess the sea state in the morning.

Day 36 Feb 13th Stormbound in Peterhead

 Well the weather is doing it again, it's not so much the wind but the sea state associated with that wind.  There are some very big seas out there at the moment. Monday looks doable, with the wind in the south it will be a run to Rattray head and from then on we will be in the lee of the land which should calm things down a bit for the rest of the journey to Whitehills Harbour.  

We were going to Banff but they have closed the Harbour for repairs.

Day 35 Feb 12 Peterhead

 Peterhead was founded in 1587 by George and Robert Kieth. The population then was around 50 people, mostly fishermen. 

Much of the early port activity took place in the sheltered channel between the mainland and Keith Inch, and in 1739 a causeway was built connecting the island to the mainland. In the 1770s the South Harbour was built by John Smeaton, and Thomas Telford designed the North Harbour, added in the 1820s.

The building of the harbours and the boom in whaling saw Peterhead become one of the two biggest whaling ports in Britain the other being Hull. As whaling declined so herring fishing boomed and like the whaling it was overfished and the subsequent decline saw a move to white fish. Since the 1970s the oil industry has taken over providing support boats for the offshore North Sea rigs. 

Peterhead, because of it's industries , is an austere place, not a great place for tourists. It does however provide a safe haven for yachtmen on an otherwise unforgiving coastline.

Day 34 Feb 11th. Arbroath to Peterhead.

 

HW Arbroath. 0150

Weather Wind F2 W Veering E as the day wears on. Sea statecalm maybe moderate later.

On leaving the inner harbour leave on the reverse transit of the two leading lights CTS 120°until well clear ofthe harbour and the rocks. ( about. 1/2 mile. Once in deeper water we can head East and North up the coast. We willexpect to be motoring most of the way.

There is little in the way of hazards for most of the journey but we must remember to stay well offshore to avoid the rocky outcrops South of the harbour..Peterhead is a very busy commercial port and we must request permission to enter and be prepared to be " held out" while ships are manouvering  .

Once through the breakwater head to port toward the green bouy and white tower that mark the entrance to the marina. The marina is on CH 11

Trip 65am  Total 763 nm.

Day 33 Feb 10 Arbroath.

 We'll that was a bit of a struggle, beating out of the firth of Forth, and a bit lumpy coming into Arbroath. Still here we are and because of the short weather window another long day of sailing tomorrow.  The weather will be closing in by the end of the day will high East winds forecast yet again, So because of the Tidal restraints here we need to set off at no later than 0430.  

So lets go get a meal, maybe some Arbroath Smokies. then back to the boat for an early night.  It's going to be a long day tomorrow.

Day 32. Feb 9th Weather window

 At last a chance to move on.  Tomorrow we set off for Arbroath.   An early start is needed to arrive there with sufficient water depth to get in. Also if the weather holds a long passage of 65 miles to Peterhead on Thursday.

HW Edinburgh  1343  HW Arbroath  1322

Weather   winds NE F5  dropping toF3 during the day  

On leaving Glinton we tack across the estuary and ina general NE direction, North of Inchkeith Island following the Northern coastline until we can get atrue course dead North for about 3hrs.  Straying offshore until the white tower and leading lights are identified.  (Extract from visitmyharbour.com - 

You should stay well off shore (a good couple of miles) until this signal tower is on the beam before turning in towards the harbour. This is not just because of the rocky reefs girding the approach but will keep you clear of the maze of lobster pots which impede the aproach. If you can’t locate the leading marks/lights ( highly unlikely because they are very prominent) you should be able to locate the twin towers of St Thomas’ Church and if you run in with them between the beacon on the west breakwater and the small lighthouse on the end of the pier you should eventually pick up the white leading marks just to the right of the signal tower to continue inbound.

The HM here would appreciate a call on #11 to advise him that you are coming in.

Trip 51nm Total 698

Day 31 Feb 8th Edinburgh

 If you google list of museums in Edinburgh, you will find 35. Some are a bit dubious in the true sense of the word.  Is a Zoo a museum?. or equally a manor house. But who cares, they are places of interest. Here are the best museums in Edinburgh, based on their rating and popularity on WhichMuseum

The National Museum of Scotland

Take a google maps tour

Day30 Edinburgh Looking for a window of opportunity

 Still she blows just on the edge of too strong.. I always tend to add . one beaufort force tothe forecast as a rule.  It gives me an extra safety factor when passage planning. Anyway experience tells me that is usually the case,especially offshore.

I have sailed a few times in F9 and it isn't pleasant, even for a short period. Those times were when the weather turned unexpectantly on the forecast had just been wrong. I certainly wouldn't deliberately set out in that.

So looking ahead there may be a chance of moving on on Wednesday fingers crossed.

We will  need somewhere safe to finish up as there is another big storm forecast for thursday/friday.  

Within the 50 mile range there are several small harbours, but most of these do not take yachties. Also the river Tay which has Dundee and Perth on it's Shores seems rather bereft of marina's, the only one I have found is Tayport, and that has very limited visiting facilities. Arbroath is the next port along the coast from the Tay, but this is inaccessible in strong winds from southwest through South to East.. Shame that, as I rather fancy going to Arbroath

We'll make a decision closer to the time, and maybe some more investigation.

Day 29 sightseeing Edinburgh Castle

Well the weather is still preventing us from moving  so today I'm off to Edinburgh Castle.  It is one of the oldest fortified places in Europe. With a long rich history as a royal residence, military garrison, prison and fortress, it is alive with many exciting tales. When you climb Castle Hill, you will walk in the footsteps of soldiers, kings and queens – and even the odd pirate or two.

Virtual tour of the castle.

Though parts of it remain in military use, the castle is now a world-famous visitor attraction. It’s also an iconic part of the Old and New Towns of Edinburgh.

For a potted History of the castle click the link here HISTORY

The Weather

OK.  This is the weather report for the Forth estuary as you can see the wind doesn't drop much below Force 6 Easterly for the next week or so. This, for us,  is disastrous The sustained wind direction and strength mean that the sea state will be very rough, waves between 2 and 5 metres.  The conditions here in Edinburgh are slightly better as we have a small amount of protection from the land. 

We are officially stormbound. 

In fact it may be worthwhile getting a flight back home for a week or so until this weather pattern changes. 

Day 26 Feb 3rd Edinburgh

 I hope you all have a good night sleep  after a bumpy ride yesterday. Granton doesn't have a great deal to offer but there is a frequent bus service into Edinburgh and Edinburgh has a great deal of attractions. Here's a quick list. Take your pick.

Edinburgh Castle

Princes Street

Holyrood Palace

Camera Obscura

Arthur’s Seat

Mary King’s Close

St Giles’ Cathedral

Scottish National Gallery

Scott Monument

Royal Botanic Garden

Greyfriars Kirk

Scottish National Portrait Gallery

Gladstone’s Land

National War Museum

Holyrood Abbey

Craigmillar Castle

The Georgian House

Museum of Childhood

Heart of Midlothian

Museum of Edinburgh

Edinburgh Zoo

Edinburgh Vaults

National Monument of Scotland

Usher Hall

Dean Village

Day 25 Feb 2nd Berwick to Edinburgh

 Wakey Wakey Guys and Gals. The wind is strong, but not too much so, and will get lighter as we go.  We'll be on a broad reach or a run most of the time so lets be off.

 

Passage plan is as follows 

HW Eyemouth  0530   HW Granton 1545

Weather   Wind SE/E 6/7  dropping later Rain 

Leave Berwick and head north Past Eyemouth   (this is a stop option if conditions are not we expect)

soon after we follow the coast round to the west  Leave Bass rock (white tower) to starboard

Leave Craiglieth and Fidra islands to the port cts now 250

Navigate clockwise around Inchkeith island and rocks (Marked channel bouys)

Once abeam Lieth approach bouy (Red Can)  turn south toward Granton harbour

Trip 53nm  Total 647

On entering the breakwaters keep an eye out for Pilot vessels and keep to the East side of the jetty The Edinburgh Marina operates the pontoons on your right for visitors.  The marina company is jointly owned by The Royal Forth Yacht Club and Forth Corinthian Yacht Clubs

Day 24 Feb 1st Lindisfarne to Berwick-upon-Tweed

We'll do a bit of sightseeing in the morning and move off around 1230 hrs.  There's a storm a brewing on Tuesday and we don't want to be out in it.

It's only a short trip and todays forecast has little wind, but with plenty of rocks around the islands,we need to know our way out.

Weather Wind F2/3 Easterly. Rain and bad visability at times.

Tide.  HW Holy Island 1709

From the anchorage follow the first leading Lights   CTS 129 ° (back heading 309) to the Triton Green Cardinal. 

Pick up second leading lights. CTS 80° (Back heading 260 )  to" RIDGE" east cardinal.

At "Ridge" turn to port CTS 349° toward.the port side of " Plough Rock" Cardinal Bouy

Then dead N to clear the Island. Until white beacon 'Emanual head' is at 225°

Turn to Port. CTS 340" for  approx 2 hrs.

Identify the light on the St North Breakwater , flashes 5 sec.

Head into the channel and follow bouyage to marina.on the left.

Hm on VHF channel 12, telephone 01289 307404 or 07931710156.

We should arrive mid afternoon. 

Trip 13nm Total 594. 

Well here we are in Berwick-upon-Tweed It is England's most northerly town. In the past it has changed hands 13 times between Scottish and English rule. Currently it is English. It has an old Bridge, Town walls and a castle. 

It is still technically at war with Russia. This came about in 1853 when Britain declared war against Russia it mentioned Berwick seperately in the articles. However, at the Treaty of Paris in1856 when hostilities ended, Berwick was not mentioned.

Take your last taste of England as you discover Berwick, we may be here a day or two. We'll be crossing the border into Scotland on our next passage.